My understanding of FE theory is this: Toward the center from any point is North, towards the edge (directly away from the center) is South, clockwise is West, anti-clockwise is East. Compasses don't actually lead us in a straight line East or West, we just think they do.
Also, you can't follow a compass South till you reach the icewall, because the magnetic field lines apparently go vertical, making that means of navigation unreliable too. (Or at least I expect that's what would be said to explain why you can't find the icewall when you head South.)