Agricultural Production Methods at Home and Garden

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Agricultural Production Methods at Home and Garden
« on: April 07, 2022, 01:15:54 AM »
In line with the decision taken by the  supreme board of  the RPOTD, I am starting to produce content on agricultural production.

We made trash the so-called pandemic (plandemic) project, which is the last brutal genocide try of the globalists. We defeated them. They lost on every front. They retreated, they have stampede from all fronts. Now we face a new attack, just at least as horrific, brutal and brutal as the pandemic genocide. This is, the food crisis genocide project of the globalists.

To justify this, they've been talking about how the world has warmed for years (even though it isn't actually warming). In order to cause this physically, they turn artificial wars and economic crises into opportunities, deliberately increasing the diesel prices. Diesel prices have increased between 200% and 300% in the last year. Brent oil, which was at the level of 20 dollars in 2000, is kept above 100 dollars nowadays. They do this deliberately to increase agricultural production costs. They are not content with just raising the price of diesel. Seed prices have increased by 100 percent and fertilizer prices by 300-700% in the last year. With the increase in the prices of diesel, fertilizer and seeds, they prevent the farmers to plant. Thus, they increase the prices by using the decreasing agricultural production as an excuse. And they are trying to camouflage this with the lie that production has decreased because of global warming.

The food crisis project implemented by globalists in recent years is one of the biggest obstacles to humanity. This project is more dangerous than the covid lie. Because if you don't believe the covid lie, treat it like the flu, stay away from vaccines and PCR, you could get rid of it unharmed and with minimal effect. But human beings have to eat to survive, they have to be fed. We cannot survive by ignoring the food crisis. For these reasons, we have to educate ourselves and those around us on this issue. Each individual must be able to produce enough food for himself. Remember, we have been farming since our earliest human ancestors. Farming is humanity's first occupation. Over the years, we neglected and forgot about farming. But we must now return to this subject, out of necessity.

In this title, you will find spot on the mark information on agricultural production techniques and different methods.

Actually, I was planning to share information about animal husbandry here , but I won't go into it because it's a bit more difficult and requires professional attention. Instead, I will have alternative suggestions to meet the protein needs by farming.

First, we need to start at the most basic level. So, first we need to have awareness about farming and plant culture.

Let's start with the basic information that will help us to understand such subjects as what is a plant, what is a tree, what is fruit, what is a vegetable, what is a ground fruit.

In the education system imposed by the globalists, plants are divided into "flowering plants and non-flowering plants". Don't you think it's funny? For example, according to this, olive tree, rose and spinach are considered as the same species. But the fern is in a different group. Ahahaha. This is really funny. They then separate them into "petaled and non-petaled". In this case, our olive tree is in the same class as the pumpkin, while the beet and mulberry are in the other group. A tree and a vegetable are in the same group, and another tree and another vegetable are in another group. Globalists have classified plant science so that people do not learn it. Ahahaha. Since none of the information they gave was correct, I was not surprised that this was also wrong. Of course, we will tell the truth of this as we tell the truth of every science. And everyone who reads this title and the series of posts in this title from the beginning to the end will be well-informed about plant science and production. Plants are primarily divided into two: trees and ground plants.

Plants are primarily divided into two:


1- Trees
2- Ground plants.

Isn't it really like that? What idiot would think of dividing plants into flowering or non-flowering? But a globalist. Anyways.

After that, trees and ground plants are again divided into two. Fruit trees, other trees. And ground plants are also divided into two; edible and non-edible.

1- Fruit trees
2- Trees without fruit

1- Edible plants
2- Non edible plants.

There is another type of globular classification that classifies it according to fruit shapes. Accordingly, plants in the same class can be grafted onto each other. For example, the fruit should have a small rind and a small rind, similar in shape, similar in grain structure, etc. Plums and cherries can be grafted together, etc. Two months ago, using the fruitless, wild, field thorn as rootstock (at worst), I grafted my cutten variety of blackberry. According to the globalist theory, there should be no vaccine, because one is fruitless (thorn), the other is fruity (blackberry). Let alone the dissimilar fruit shape, one of them doesn't even have any fruit at all. Moreover, the thorn plant is thorny, since my blackberry is a special genus, it does not even have thorns.  It have take the vaccination. Ahahaha. So where did I do it right or what approach did I take? For, whether one is fruitless and the other fruity, one is thornless and the other has thorns, the blackberry is essentially a plant that looks like thorns and is usually thorny. some relatives of the other barb species have small blackberries. So they are actually relatives. So whatever the globalists say, the logic required these two to be grafted together, I did, and it did. Anyway. Let's get back to our topic.


Fruit tree

This tree is real. It has 40 different fruits. It is done by grafting techniques. Although we are not as experts in this field as Prof Dr Sam Van Aken, we should at least know the methods of grafting one tree to another.

Trees without fruit

Trees without fruit are generally used for healing, ornamental and landscaping purposes. Sometimes they grow on their own. The bark of this willow tree has analgesic properties and is used to make aspirin. Here we will usually talk about the fruit tree. However, there are many benefits to having a couple of willow, sycamore, cedar and hornbeam trees around you. For example, sycamore leaves are very useful. Returning to our topic

Edible plants

This is the eggplant vegetable we all know. I would like to give an example of an inedible plant.

Non edible plants

Inedible plants are actually plants that cause poisoning when eaten. Humans can actually eat anything, as long as it fits in their mouth. But it has to fit the definition of "food". Therefore, we use the term "inedible" in the sense of "non food".

In this title, we will give extensive coverage to "edible ground plants".
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Growing tomatoes at home
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2022, 04:55:24 AM »
Growing tomatoes at home

I end off the technical side of the issue here. Otherwise, there is a lot to talk about. I want to choose specific topics and tell them directly. Today's topic: "Growing tomatoes at home".

Growing tomatoes at home is an enjoyable and beneficial job. Room temperature is the ideal rooting and growth temperature for most plant species. I mean, a tomato plant in a large pot at home will grow much faster in front of a glass than a tomato seedling you bury in the garden. That's why what we call greenhouse production is done. Yield increases. And you can also do this for 12 months in summer and winter. How beautiful, isn't it? 12 seasons of the year free tomatoes.

What we need to grow tomatoes; Seed, soil, pot, if any fertilizer, water, sun. Let us now examine them in turn.


You can get the seed in two ways. 1) By buying seeds 2) Obtaining from tomatoes you buy.

Since the first method requires spending money, I will show the second one because it was the one free of charge.

Obtaining seeds from tomatoes you buy.

There are also two methods here.

1) To take the seeds by separating them from the tomato body,

We cut the tomato along its length in any direction, as shown in the photo. And then we transfer the seeds to a bowl with the help of a knife, spoon or fork as in the figure. Seeds taken in this way must first be washed. It is placed on a fabric as in the photo so that it does not run off, the foreign layer on it will be reduced with each wash. In this way, we get clean tomato seeds. If we want, we can plant it right away that day or the next day by keeping it for a day. I am not a fan of waiting.

2) To take the seeds together with the body of tomato by dividing the tomato into pieces.

Although not as effective as the other, it is a more fun and successful method. I use this method because it is easier, and much faster. Lazy bones work. :)

In this method, you cut the tomatoes into as many pieces as you want and plant them. What you need to be careful about is that every piece of tomato cut must also contain seeds. If the piece you cut does not contain tomato seeds, do not plant it, eat it. Ahaha. Instead of a flower pot, you can also use a 5 liter plastic bottle that you can pierce the bottom of. This is how I do it.

If we start from the beginning;

Cut the tomato into pieces containing seeds. Fill a flowerpot with soil, arrange the tomatoes on it. Then put 2-3 centimeters of garden soil on top. If there is no garden soil, normal soil will do. Give your first water. That's all for now.

Even if we do it with the first method, the process is the same until the first water is given. Place the seeds on top of the soil, don't do it too often. Cover it with 2-3 centimeters of soil. Give it its first water. That's it.

There is little difference in operation between the first and second method. We need to pay attention to this.

Since we take the seeds and wash them in the first method, they are a little more suitable for germination. So we don't need to water the soil too much. Watering is sufficient to keep the soil dry. This is how we understand that the soil is dry: Dip your finger into the soil 2 centimeters, if it is slightly moist, water is sufficient. If your finger isn't moist, it's dry and you should sprinkle it water.

In the second method, this process will be completed in the soil, since the seeds are not separated from the stem of the rootstock tomato and are not washed. And more water will be required. This is necessary both for the seeds to separate from the stem and for their separation from the surrounding foreign matter. Therefore, watering should be done once a day until germination is observed in the second method. In this method, watering is required every day, whether the soil is dry or moist.

The average germination time of tomatoes is about 2 weeks. It can be longer or shorter depending on the air temperature. Take your time. And if you have observed the first germination, it may be useful to watch a few videos for the next.

An example of what we have learn today. Here, he applies both "taking seeds and planting" and "cutting and planting" methods on the same pot. If you want, you can choose only one of these methods.

It is not shown in the video that the bottom of the flower pot has a hole. If you are going to use a plastic bottle, pierce the bottom with a fork or knife, otherwise the water will stay in the soil and rot your plant. In the example here, germination took place in 7 days. The reasons for this can be listed as the home environment, the good temperature and the purchase of the good soil. If we mix the soil from different parts of our garden, it will still germinate, it will be only a few days late. It doesn't matter. Time belongs to us. What we don't have is tomatoes. :)

This is how seed germination is done. Now, let's talk about other issues that I mentioned at the beginning of the article.


You can buy soil, and mix it with prepared soil, plant soil aand the soil in your garden or with sand. Alternatively, you can sift from the fine-grained part of the soil in your garden and choose it yourself randomly. The seedlings you will obtain in this method may not develop as well as the other, maybe they will develop well, we cannot know for sure. But we know that the soil in your garden is free and is there when you want it. The thing you should pay attention to when taking soil from your garden is that other, living plants should not be in the soil. Otherwise, this plant will collect the substances your seeds need for development and your seed will not germinate.

When planting seeds, there should be no fertilizer in the soil. Since the seed has no roots, it will not be able to benefit from the fertilizer and there is a possibility that the seed will die as a result of the chemical reaction of the fertilizer.

« Last Edit: April 07, 2022, 06:32:24 AM by wise »
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Re: Agricultural Production Methods at Home and Garden
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2022, 06:33:01 AM »
Growing tomatoes at home (2)



A 5-liter pot is sufficient for the development of one tomato. Therefore, you should place each of the more than ten seedlings you have germinated in a single pot in separate 5-liter pots. Instead of a flower pot, you can use a 5 or 10 liter used plastic water pet bottle as I mentioned above. Today, the use of plastic pet bottles as flower pots in modern agriculture is used as an alternative method and is well known.

There are some holes at the bottom of the pot you bought for the drainage of excess water. But if you are going to use a plastic pet bottle, cut three or four times from the bottom of the bottle with a knife to an inch length. Thus, water does not accumulate and your plant will not rot due to water accumulation. Sun protection is required for root development. Root development does not occur on sun-exposed surfaces. Therefore, if you are going to use a plastic bottle, cover the bottom of it with a material that will block the sun, or fold a soft cardboard around it. If your pet bottle is colored, you will not need to do anything.


Chemical fertilizers are not recommended at all. Natural fertilizer methods are used in today's modern agriculture. These methods are many. If you are going to grow tomatoes at home, the easiest thing for you is to make fertilizer from kitchen scraps.

It is a well-known method to mix onion peel with water and leave it in a container in a shaded environment for a week. The resulting liquid is a good fertilizer. As another method, egg shells are kept in water for 10 minutes and this water is used as liquid fertilizer. There is also a method in which eggshells are boiled.

Or, as I did, throwing whatever you can get your hands on, such as egg shells, onion skins, and tea residue, at the bottom of the tomatoes, in an amount that won't bother him. If these fertilizers are liquid, there is no problem, but if you are going to throw solid fertilizers, be careful that they do not cover the surface noticeably. As long as you use few fertilizer, it will not be a problem.

If your plant isn't as green as it should be, or if leaves or branches seem to be loosening, or if you're feeling weak for some reason, it may need fertilizer. In this case, you should consider the reinforcement recommendations.

If there is no extraordinary situation, your plant will be content with the soil in the pot. However, it may be necessary to supplement with eggshell and onion at the stage of fruiting.


It could be the water you drink, or running water, or tap water. No sea water. Salt water harms plants. It is sufficient that the soil of your plant is moist. If the soil has started to crack, your plant may need a lot of water. In hot weather, a small amount of watering in the morning and evening should be sufficient. Water slowly and watch for the water starting to come out from the bottom of the pot. If the water starts to drip from the bottom, it means you have given enough water. I make irrigation water fertile by adding bulbs and bark. I don't know, maybe better, maybe more harmful, but that's how I do it and it's not bad.

The water should not be hot, and it should not be too cold. Do not give your plant water that you cannot drink yourself. So, maybe it could be a little harsher. Would you give your pet water that you wouldn't drink yourself? No, what makes you sick can make him sick too. Same thing. Man, then an animal, and a plant is considered a half-animal because it is alive. If you don't drain or give too much water, the roots of the plant will rot. The plant doesn't want to be dehydrated, but it doesn't want too much water either. A slightly moist soil is ideal.


The sun does not matter during the germination phase. Still, the sun doesn't matter until the green parts come out. When leaves start to appear, your plant needs to see the sun as it will want to photosynthesize. The sun damages the roots of the plant, but is beneficial for stem development. Therefore, it is beneficial to see a small amount of sun. For this, you can store your plant in a place that receives sunlight for one or two hours a day. After the full development stage, you can put your plant in more sun.
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Rapid Germination
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2022, 04:27:25 AM »
Rapid Germination

Today's topic of our "Agricultural tips" column is "Rapid Germination".

You can try this method on almost any type of seed you can think of. It applies to both tree and ground plant species. It is also useful for fruiting or non-fruiting trees, as well as edible and non-edible ground plants. All you need is seed, napkin, water, gladwrap.

After scattering the seeds neatly in the napkin, we wet them a little with water. The napkin will be wet, but not so much that it will fall apart. Enough to say "yes it's wet". Put it in cling film or anything that is airtight. If there is no such thing, it may remain in the napkin, but in this case, you will have to water it again as there will be water loss. Since you will not know exactly how much water you will lose and how much water you will give, your chance of success will decrease. If you still want to try, that's the risk.

Here we placed the watermelon seeds as in the figure. They are about 2 centimeters apart. The spacing varies according to the root length you expect. For example, since I thought about planting 2 cm roots when 2 cm roots were formed, 2 cm distance was enough for me. You can try different intermediate lengths such as 3 centimeters, 1 centimeter.

We fold the napkin as follows.

It becomes like this, so that the seeds stay inside:

You can leave it in any shade to germinate this way. Or, as shown in the figure, you can wrap a bag outside of the napkin to prevent it from getting air and thus losing liquid. Still, a small amount of air will surely be taken from somewhere. That's not that much of a problem, oppositely normal.

Unlike germination in the soil, the waiting time here varies between 1 days and 14 days. Sometimes it even germinates the very next day. Some seeds can germinate the next day this way. It is sufficient to wait at room temperature where it will not be exposed to direct sunlight.

In the rapid germination method, it is important to sow immediately after germination. However, some seeds that you put in the same napkin will germinate quickly, while others will germinate late. This leaves you with a choice. To endanger the first germinated ones by waiting a little longer, or to endanger those that have not yet emerged by opening immediately. In the example here, it was waited for 10 days.

Eighty percent germination success was achieved and root lengths are 2-5 centimeters. Nice result.

Here we used watermelon seeds. You can try anything else as well.

From now on, carry a napkin and plastic bag with you, do not throw away the seeds when you eat a ground plant with seeds. Just wash and wet the seeds, wrap them in a napkin, put them in a bag, and watch them germinate. After germination, you can plant it in the ground (with taking a risk) or in a pot (safer until it gets a little bigger).

Give life today, to some living things.
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Grafting trees and tips
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2022, 06:48:09 AM »
Today I wanted to talk about grafting trees.

Before we talk about tree grafting methods and tips, we need to talk about what tree grafting is.

Tree Grafting: The tree grafting is the conversion of a tree species into a different tree using a piece from the other tree. For example, the process of transforming a quince tree into a pear tree by using a branch of a pear tree for grafting.

There are many tree grafting methods available. Which of these methods will be preferred may vary according to the grafted tree and the season, as well as the preference and experience of the person.

Tree grafting is the most common method used for grafting trees, especially for fruit trees. However, there are various grafting techniques. Each type of grafting is used to accomplish various needs for grafting trees and plants. For instance, root and stem grafting are techniques preferred for small plants. Veneer grafting is often used for evergreens. Bark grafting is used for larger diameter rootstocks and often requires staking. Crown grafting is a type of grafting used to establish a variety of fruit on a single tree. Whip grafting uses a wood branch or scion. Bud grafting uses a very small bud from the branch. Cleft, saddle, splice and inarching tree grafting are some other types of grafting.


Since you can easily find tree grafting techniques and tips on the Internet, I will be content with briefly giving preliminary information about some of the most frequently encountered terms.

Rootstock tree: A rootstock is part of a plant, often an underground part, from which new above-ground growth can be produced. The meaning of this technical explanation is that, the rootstock tree is the tree we have and we want to transform into a different tree.

Scion: A scion is a piece of vegetative material taken from a tree that produces the fruit variety you want to graft. If we need to explain this technical explanation a little bit, the rootstock tree that we want  transform to, and Scion is a part of the tree species we want to transform.

For example, we can name the root of the quince tree we want to transform as the rootstock tree, and the branch of the pear tree that we will use to transform it as a scion.

Although this issue may seem like an insignificant one, it is actually a method that is more important and used more than one might think. With this method, you can easily transform a tree that has lost its attractiveness or that is more abundant in the environment into a more valuable tree. A fruit tree begins to bear fruit in an average of 3 years and fruitfully in 4-5 years. However, with this technique, your tree will start to produce the fruit you want within two years. Since the roots of a tree developed with this method will be much stronger than a tree grown from the core, it will complete its development much faster.

Transformable Plants

Plums: Peach, apricot, almond, cherry

Apple: Pear,

Apricot (wild): Apricot, peach, plum.

Cherry: Cherry.

wild pear: Pear, medlar, quince.

Apricot: Plum, Peach, Almond, Cherry, wild apricot.

Peach: Apricot, plum, almond.

Quince: Maltese plum, medlar, pear , apple

Cherry: Cherry

Mulberry: vine, fig

Oak: Chestnut

Turpentine tree: Pistachio

To the Hawthorn Tree: Medlar

To the Pear Tree: Pear, medlar, quince.

To the red pine tree: Pistachio pine

Tangerine: lime

To the Citrus (Citrus aurantium) tree: All citrus fruits (a subfamily including citrus, orange, lime, tangerine, grapefruit and the like, citrus, kumquat), citron.

Rose : rosehip, eggplant,  cherry laurel, Cherry, Apricot, Flame Tree,  Apple, Quince, Plum, Peach, Medlar, Strawberry, Pear, blackberry, raspberry.

Pumpkin: Watermelon

Potatoes: Tomatoes

Seeds: Sea buckthorn, (Elaeagnus, Hippophae, Shepherdia) species

Tomatoes : Nightshade, golden berry (ground currant), eggplant, pepper, Mandrake, Hennagrass, Tatula, Tobacco, Fine Gourd Grass

Solanum capsicoides (Cockroach Berry) (eggplant tree) :Eggplant

Cucumber: Melon (Cucumis melon), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Loofah (Luffa cylindrica), Gourd (Lagenaria siceraria), Donkey cucumber (Ecballium elaterium),Ebucehil watermelon (Citrullus colocynhis), Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus), ("Sechium edule")

In addition, the plants for which the equivalents are written can be grafted among themselves. Example: Rose grafting on apricot.

Among the plants that can be transformed, the most interesting is the kind we call the rose. The range of transformation of the rose is very wide, while other trees and ground plants transform into similar species. On the one hand, it can turn into trees known as tall trees such as "cherry tree, quince and apple", and on the other hand, it can turn into ground plants such as "eggplant and strawberry".

On the one hand, it can turn into trees known as tall trees such as "cherry tree, quince and apple", and on the other hand, it can turn into ground plants such as "eggplant and strawberry". The rose is like a "TransformerS" of the plants.

Unlike most known dwarf species of it, rose is a woody tree. It is known that rosewood can reach up to 30 meters. This explains why it can easily transform into apple, pear and quince trees. Well, has anyone thought of grafting an eggplant on a branch of a rose 30 meters high? It must have happened.

This is not the result of a vaccine. A kind of eggplant. Some types of eggplant can be perennial, like here. This is the kind we know as "Chinese eggplant." 

As a result, it is possible to transform many plants into each other with grafting methods.
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Sowing systematic
« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2022, 03:52:24 AM »
How much of each vegetable should you plant in your garden and how much product will you get as a result? I have summarized the answers to these questions in the table below.

Number of Plant for per decare /  Plant Average yield (kg/da) / Average first harvest time
Aubergine   2.000   2000-8000   80
Beans   20.000   800-1200   70
Beet   30.000   1000-1500   65
Cabbage   3.000   4000-5000   90
Carrot   60.000   4000-6000   95
Cauliflower   2.800   1000-3000   120
Celery   6.000   3000-5000   100
Corn   7.000   1500-2000   100
Cucumber   2.000   3000-16000   60
Leek   35.000   3000-5000   135
Lettuce   8.000   2000-5000   75
Melon   1.500   2000-4000   90
Okra   6.000   500-700   65
Onion   70.000   4000-6000   180
Parsley   160.000   500-1000   80
Peas   20.000   600-800   60
Pepper   4.000   2000-5000   75
Pumpkin   1.500    6000-18000   60
Radish   120.000   2000-3000   35
Spinach   50.000   2000-3000   50
Tomatoes   2.200   5000-15000   100
Watermelon   700   3000-5000   100

You can also make an economic calculation here. For example, if melons are expensive in your country, for example, a kilogram of melon costs $10, you can plant it. You need to calculate as follows: What is your total melon consumption in a year? For example, let's say you and your family consume 20 kilos of melon in a year. In this case, we calculate how many seedlings we need to plant and how much space we need:

I immediately come to the line incluıdes the melon and copy that line:

Melon 1.500 2000-4000 90

Here, 1500 is the number of seedlings required for 1000 square meters (1 decare).

The number 2000-4000 is the amount of product we will take on average for one decare in kilograms. In other words, we will get at least 2 tons of melons from one acre.

90 days is the time that the seedling we planted will turn into a melon.


If we make the proportion, since we need 20 kilos, and an acre yields 2000 kilos; We find that we need to plant on an area of ​​10 square meters. That is, if we are using 1000 square meters of area for 2000 kilograms of product, then we should use 10 square meters of area for 20 kilograms of product.

We figured out how much space to use: 10 square meters. So, how many melon plants do we need to plant in this area? We will look at the same line again. According to the information in the line, there should be 1500 seedlings in a thousand square meters. So, if we make the ratio again, it is calculated that if 1500 seedlings are used in 1000 square meters, 15 seedlings should be used in 10 square meters. As a result, we also calculated how many seedlings we will use: 15.

It also says how many days we will have to wait to eat our first melon after planting: 90 days.

From this table, distances between seedlings can also be calculated: Since 15 seedlings will be planted in 10 square meters, how many square meters does a seedling occupy? square root (10/15) = about 80 centimeter

If this work is to be done professionally, it is necessary to comply with these distances. But since we are amateurs at these things, we can do the intervals more often. If we are going to plant these in 10-liter pet water bottles, we will need 15 10-liter pet bottles, and in this case, approximately 3 square meters of area is sufficient. You can put these plastic bottles in sunny places away from each other where melons can grow easily.

I wish everyone abundant and delicious products.  ^-^
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Re: Agricultural Production Methods at Home and Garden
« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2022, 11:36:32 PM »
We continue to prepare for the so-called global food crisis scenario, which is the post-pandemic scenario. In this context, I turned my 3 acres of villa garden into agricultural land. I hope everyone is preparing in this context.

We planted 10 pumpkins and 5 zucchini last weekend. We planted around 200 bean seedlings we bought and 50 haricot beans we grew ourselves. We also planted our cucumbers and peppers. We planted cherry tomatoes that we had grown from seedlings and the heirloom tomato seedlings we bought together with a small number of melons. Our peas, whose numbers are around 40, have bloomed. We harvested and removed the cabbages and lettuce, and separated some of them as seeds. My eggplant seedlings are not mature enough yet. We plan to plant them this weekend. We don't have radishes, I don't know why, maybe because it was cheap we never planned it.

We have prepared 15 watermelon places. This weekend, we will plant our own watermelon seedlings and 60 melon seedlings that we have grown ourselves. There are different versions of onions on every place of garden.  Wherever we see a gap, we plant onions and potatoes. I don't have the courage to plant corn this year because crows destroyed our cornfield last year. Maybe in the future I can grow some corn in the house in pots. I haven't decided yet. I couldn't plant the mushroom I found in the forest because the people veto it. However, I had very good manure. I have postponed the planting of mushrooms for now, because they can be poisonous. I'm not sure, maybe I can buy cultivated mushroom seeds in the future. Then it will be more persuasive for home public.

My tree states are like this:

My 2 fig trees are 3 years old. It had a few fruits last year. They are doing well this year as well.

My apple and pear trees are doing well. My plum, cherry, apricot, peach, quince trees are 2 or 3 years old this year and are branching well. Some of them bloomed beautifully this year, I hope they will bear good fruit. Two of the walnut trees are two years old and two are three years old this year. The three-year-olds bloomed beautifully. They also bore fruit last year. I think this year will be better.

6 of the mulberry seedlings, whose fruit I liked and rooted from slip, opened very beautiful leaves. They are one year old this year. 6 of the 10 grape vines that I cut for trial purposes and tried to make it root from the branch were rooted. One is 4 years old, the others are 1-2. My expectation of my grape vines this year is their survival. Ahaha.

Citrus trees, orange, tangerine and lime trees have withered. They are not suitable for this climate. Last year, they were again dry in the beginning of summer. I haven't decided, but I'll probably plant mulberries instead. Also, my blackberries that I brought from the village have bloomed. I expect them to be branch out this year and bear fruit next year.

There are beautiful blueberries in the forest around. I will harvest afew them this summer and I plan to get seedlings from there towards winter. I spread the strawberries in the field towards the wooded area. My goal is to prevent people from running between the trees, while I am growing strawberries. The idea is that the roots of the strawberry are not deep. In this respect, there will be no harm to the trees. And those who see the sun through between the branches and leaves will grow well. I think the others will partial grow with partial sun exposure. All of my strawberries were in the open field in the field before and well grown. We'll see what the result will be when they're among the trees. The reason I took some of the strawberries from the field and put them to the between the trees is partly to make more room for the vegetables. Every vegetable grows in the field, this is not a big deal. the important thing is to grow in the grass, among the trees.  Ahahaha. We will see the result.

I also decorate my garden with roses and wisteria trees. I rooted the roses with the branch and am trying to root the wistaria branches using the aerial rooting technique. (I don't remember explaining this method, but I can if I didn't). I also hiked for about an hour and collected some beautiful corn poppy flowers. Those who are curious can do a google search for "corn poppy flower benefits". It is effective against many diseases, from bronchitis to sleep disorders. Note that this is not a poppy, but a "corn poppy flower".

Since the fertilizer inflation is 800 percent, I bought "burnt organic fertilizer" from the area and I use it. Like light earth. It is easy to use, odorless, useful and inexpensive. There are too many wild dogs in the area. Otherwise I was thinking of keeping sheep and chickens and I could get the manure from there. But I'm not sure I can protect it from wild dogs, wolves and coyotes. For protein, my preference for now is beans and—if any—mushrooms. I also have a plan to turn the pool into a lake for raising fish, but the public is strongly against it. I don't know if people still prefer to go to the pool when they can't find meat to eat. I think that's nonsense, of course that's just my opinion. There is still democracy here. Ahaha.

Here, our field work, which I cannot count now, continues. I'm preparing for the worst-case scenario. I must consider the possiblity of After the war between Russia and Ukraine, China, Turkey and the USA were also involved in the war, and an artificial food crisis emerged as the world's most important agricultural producer countries (deliberately) fought. This is the most critical scenario right now and it is the next plan of the globalists. We don't know if it will happen, but we need to be prepared.

The enemy is clear, the enemy is the 3,000-year-old enemies of Moses, the pharaoh, and his descendants, the globalist gang descended from the pharaoh who took over the world. Just as we are fighting against them by defending the flat earth, our struggle from the pandemic to the global food crisis should continue uninterrupted in every field. Just as we defeated them in the pLandemic (it's only a matter of time before they raise the white flag), in the so-called food crisis scenario, we will bring them something crashing down.

God bless us, God bless me. I mean the God of the Yang universe. The other one is not in my back yard.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2022, 03:43:15 AM by wise »
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  • Professor
  • Flat Earth Scientist
  • 25409
  • The Only Yang Scholar in The Ying Universe
Re: Agricultural Production Methods at Home and Garden
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2022, 01:43:56 AM »
In September last year, I announced that for some reason I had to return to the forum for the following reason.

Although I have already announced that I have left the forum, I am sharing something for the third time. Some don't understand why.

I made a policy decision in this way, but there is a situation that is more important than these principles at the moment. The human race is facing the threat of total extinction. This danger has evolved into a process that trivializes it by absorbing all possible principled decisions into its own plane and makes it disappear. If my own life was at stake, I would not compromise my principled stance. However, since the whole life of humanity is at stake, my decision as an individual remains very light here.

Later, we established RPOTD with the aim of continuing the struggle officially.

Using their power, they throw poison into the air, leave people without oxygen behind masks, and also lock them in houses, causing them to become fat and get sick more easily, as well as destroy them with a biological weapon called a vaccine. The summary of what they are doing is all-out shelling. They are continuing the genocide against people in the form of carpet bombing at full speed.

In all these adverse circumstances, RPOTD was established to prevent people from being persecuted, ensure their survival, ensure that they are organized to resist persecution, and provide the necessary responses on the ground in the face of the losses suffered.

As of today, exactly 4 months and 12 days after the establishment of the RPOTD resistance organization, our struggle has resulted in victory, even though the enemy has not yet officially confessed. In this context, the emergency conditions that required me to return to the forum have disappeared. I consider it appropriate to move away from here again, because the conditions that required me to leave the forum are still the same. However, before I take a break from the forum again, I will explain the aerial rooting technique that I referred to in the last post.

After that, our expectation is the artificial creation of the global food crisis. This is a project like the Plandemi, and it will take time to be fully prepared, implemented and turned into a serious danger that will harm the public. When this happens, I will be around again to reorganize the resistance or to support the existing resistance, if any, if it is organized. I don't know how long this will take, it depends a little bit on the work of the globalist Nazis. With good work they can achieve to prepare the food crise this in a few months, or it may take a year or a few, considering they were severely damaged during the Plandemi. We will experience it by living.

I would like to explain a couple of rooting techniques that are precursors to this subject. These will help you understand the philosophy of the business.

A tree can reproduce naturally, most commonly from seed or root. We already know how to propagate from seed. Our topic here is reprodiction via root and branch.

Rooting from root and branch (in situ) is shown in this image. A new tree may grow from the root of an existing tree, or it may be formed by rooting a submerged to ground branch of that tree. The rooting of the branch when it meets the soil has brought many inventions.
1+2+3+...+∞= 1



  • Professor
  • Flat Earth Scientist
  • 25409
  • The Only Yang Scholar in The Ying Universe
Re: Agricultural Production Methods at Home and Garden
« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2022, 01:44:31 AM »
... Continue of the above

1- Immersion method

In this method, you force the middle part of a long branch join into the ground. In this way, the middle part will be rooted and a new tree will form. Here, when the middle branch is cut, two different trees are formed and the tree is reproduced. This is the most commonly used replication method. It is frequently used in trees such as grapes, mulberries, vines and figs, whose branches can bend easily. The part of the branch to be rooted should completely enter the soil and should not move. It is usually sufficient to be about 5 centimeters deep and put a weight on it.

2- Aerial rooting technique

In this method, instead of sinking the branch into the soil, you bring the soil to the branch.

Here, in order to encourage the rooting of the branch, first the branch is peeled cylindrically to a length equal to its own thickness. Here, first the bark is removed, then the outermost capillaries of the lower woody part should also be cleaned. You can search how to do this on youtube or find out by trial and error method.

We take a plastic bottle according to the size of the branch, -a half-liter plastic bottle is used here-, remove the bottom part and cut it vertically in the middle. We place this piece on the branch, including the part from which we took the bark of the branch (this is where it will be rooted).

We fix it to the tree using insulating tape so that it does not slip from the tree. In order to prevent water loss, we close the bottom part and fill it with soil.

The soil used here is a mixture of garden soil, peat and perlite. I tried mixing garden soil with raw soil, it works that way too. There are also those who use "seaweed alone" instead. I once tried to collect moss from the northern edges of the trees, but it didn't work. It may be. You can also try this.

As a result, garden soil is the best. It works everywhere.

We give the first lifeblood water.

We cover and tape the top part to prevent water loss. Thatz all.

Here, some experts use aluminum foil to completely wrap the pet bottle. In this way, rooting is better in a sunless environment. I do not use aluminum foil. Maybe no roots will form on the outer parts. In this way, there may be 5-20 percent root loss depending on the size of the bottle. I don't care too much about this 20 percent loss, as the main issue is rooting and survival of the plant. However, if your tree is very important, an endemic species, you can try using aluminum foil to increase its chances of survival. What you need to know here is that if you do it without aluminum foil and just as described above, your chances of success are over 90 percent.

3- Aerial rooting from scion technique

This is one of the least used methods. Usually used if the tree does not belong to us. Compared to others, the chance of success is slightly less. However, it has been successfully implemented. For example, if the success rate is 95% in the immersion method, 90% in the air rooting method, it may be 85% in this method. But that can be the difference. This is not so important. The important thing here is to be successful enough even though it is the most difficult method.

In this method, the idea used in the air rooting method is used in the modern way. The stem environment required for the nutrition of the plant is created artificially and it is expected to root in the air with the soil brought to the branch. This method is used on branches that are 2 years old or older and that cannot be rooted normally. It is not a very common method, however, it is the method I use most often. The reason for this is that, unlike other methods, it allows you to take the cut branches of trees that you can find around, that you like, that do not belong to you, and rooting. It is a little more difficult than others. But it doesn't require much effort after initial setup.

A large branch and a 20-liter water drum were used here. You can use it in the form of 0.5 liter, 1 liter, 5 liter, 10 or 20 liter water cans depending on the size of the branch.A total of two water bottles or cans are required. One for water, the other for soil.

We insert our branch into the water-filled can as shown in the figure. And at the top, we take the part we want to root in a smaller plastic bottle and fill it with soil. Here, the preparation of the soil-filled plastic bottle and the branch at the top is the same as the "air rooting" method above. In the same way, we cut a part from the outer part of the branch as much as its thickness and clean the capillaries. You can use rooting accelerator if available. I use cinnamon. Ground lentils can also be used.

In the same way, we give lifespan. We wrap it with tape. It's over, that's it.

Here is a complete explanation of this method. The final section explains how to plant the work done a month ago using this method. Although it is not in the language you can understand, I strongly recommend you to watch it so that you can see how it is applied visually:

See you in the funny pages, anytime, anyplace.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2022, 03:17:27 AM by wise »
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